Kodak’s Korner

March 09 – I had been meaning to get out to the Coral Sea for the past 5 years, and last month I finally made it a reality. My good friend Chris was visiting from Germany so we took the opportunity to book on with Taka for their 5 day 4 night trip to the Cod Hole and Coral Sea. Taka leaves from Cairns (North Queensland) which can be reached by domestic flight from all major Australian cities. Alternatively, Cairns also boast an international airport, although direct international flights are less frequent and more expensive.

Taka is the most budget conscious of the 3 operators running to the Cod Hole/Coral Sea (the others are Mike Ball and Spirit of Freedom). We were pleasantly surprised when we rang up to book a week before the trip and were offered stand by rates, saving us almost 25% off an already excellently priced trip. So if you live in North Queensland, last minute spontaneous trips are the way to go.

The MV Taka is a liveaboard with rooms on the 1^st and 3^rd levels, and a saloon, showers (with hot water) and dive deck on the 2^nd level. Room options range from quad shares to twins to single rooms with ensuite. They are an average size for a liveaboard, but are clean and adequate. The saloon is outfitted with large plasma screens (where maps of dive sites and photos are shown) and an extensive library with ID books, dive magazines and other non dive fiction. The dive deck is spacious and you never feel like you are fighting with 2 other people to put on your dive gear. The photographic facilities are also very good with bins of fresh water outside and large well lit tables in the saloon for setting up your kit.

The trip begins with a cruise up the ribbon reefs, visiting some dives sites there (the Cod Hole being the northern most one) and then out to the Coral Sea and back again. The ride out is fairly smooth within the barrier reef, but during the crossing to the Coral Sea it gets quite rough. We spent many a night bracing against the four corners of the bed so as not to get thrown around too much. Once tip for a more comfortable (albeit slightly) night is to request a cabin with beds that run bow to stern. That way, you are rocking left and right, instead of smacking your head into the headboard and then feet into the footboard.

The crew was reliable when called upon and fairly friendly when spoken to. However, they tended to keep to themselves (seldom asking your story), unless you were female and hot. Then again, being a dive instructor, I know why a lot of people get into the industry. Special mention has to go to Yuko though as she was an excellent dive guide, pointing out a myriad of interesting photogenic critters. Food was also very good, with Matt serving up delicious meals for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks.

The diving was generally quite good with good coral cover and marine life at all sites. Dives are all 45 – 55 minutes long. However, visibility was a little lacking (5-10m) on the sites along the ribbon reefs (could be due to summer, the proximity to the mainland and the rain during the previous week). Once out at the Coral Sea, visibility improved to more than 20 meters. In terms of marine life, it ranged from large pelagic (such as sharks, rays, turtles and cod), to smaller fish (such as angelfish, butterflyfish, anemonefish, cuttlefish, anthias and snappers), to macro critters (such as nudibranchs, flashing file shell, mantis shrimp, flatworms and hermit crabs). Once again, the further you got from humanity, the more pristine the reef and more abundant the marine life became.

The entire trip was excellent for photography and videography. The large pelagic (i.e. cod and sharks) as the Cod Hole and Osprey Reef are used to humans and you can get quite close to fill the frame. If not, they always come close for the feedings. Macro life is also in abundance if you take your time and cast a discerning eye over the reef. I did find it a little annoying at times to have to jostle for space with the trip videographer.

Overall, Taka is a great way to get out to the Cod Hole/Coral Sea on a budget. The diving is spectacular and really substantiates the claims that the Great Barrier Reef is one of the great dives in the world. However, if you are after 5 star service and facilities, this might not be the option for you.

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Pixie’s Pinnacle

One of the bommies within the ribbon reefs, Pixie’s Pinnacle holds some nice macro surprises for the photographer. The guides point out a flashing file shell and you can generally find mantis shrimp, pipefish and a variety of colourful nudibranchs if you are observant.

Cod Hole

One of the selling points of the trip are the cod feed and night dive at the Cod Hole. The Cod Feed is great as large cod are smashing food right in your face (although Claire would advise you to not stick your hands out). The night dive is even more special as the cod follow you around, brushing past you (a little freaky at night) as they look for food. At one point, I was even riding a cod as it decided to swim between my legs!

North Horn (Osprey Reef in the Coral Sea)

The other major selling point of the trip, the shark feed at North Horn is absolutely amazing. The dive guides bring down a bin full of frozen tuna heads. Everyone sites down in the semi circular amphitheatre with the bin in the centre, and then it begins. We were lucky enough to get white tip and black tip reef sharks, grey reef sharks and even some oceanic white tips. Really lets you know you’re alive!

Steve’s Bommie

A tribute to a legendary freediver (you can photograph the plaque at around 22m), this bommie is teaming with life. I would highly recommend a guide as they found me quite a few nudibranchs, leafy scorpionfish and stonefish. Those aside, the site is covered in anemonies (a couple of species) and swarming with anthias. A photographer’s dream J